Almeria was, until recently, the last well-known of Andalucia’s provincial capitals. These days, due to the growing popularity of the province’s beaches, especially nearby Cabo de Gata and its natural park, more visitors are getting to know Andalucia’s fastest-growing major city. It remains, for now at least, largely uncommercialised – Andalucia before the tourists arrived – and is known as a ‘rough diamond’, a relaxed place with surprisingly good nightlife.

Almeria is the most African of Andalucia’s port cities (Huelva, Cadiz, Malaga) – it is sometimes called ‘an extension of Morocco’ and in Arab times, Almeria was the richest and most important port in Andalucia

The Alcazaba of Almeria

The Alcazaba was founded during the first half of the 10th century by Cordoban Caliph Abd al-Rahman III, who also built Medina Azahara. Construction on the fortress was started in 955AD, and Almeria subsequently became an important trading port city with the Mediterranean and North Africa. Then Almeria gained taifa (independent city state) status, and its prosperity peaked – trading goods included silk, woven from thread made by silkworms in the Alpujarra, olive oil, ceramics and gold coins. The palace in the Alcazaba would have been resplendent. After the taifan era, the city passed to the Almoravids.

At this period in the history of Almeria, such was the city’s status and importance within Al-Andalus that the saying went: “When Almeria was Almeria, Granada was but its farm.”

Two centuries after being built, having withstood two sieges, the Alcazaba was captured by Catholic King Alfonso VII in 1147, allied with the Italian city states of Genoa and Pisa. Alfonso held it for just a decade. During this time, many trading ties were severed, and the fortunes of the city suffered. Almeria never recovered from this sudden and dramatic economic – and architectural – collapse.

The Almohads (who also built the Giralda and Torre del Oro in Seville) recovered the city in 1157, ruling until 1228. Afterwards came the Nasrids, who built the Alhambra, ruling Almeria from Granada. In 1489, in the twilight years of the Moorish era, Almeria was once again captured by Catholic monarchs – this time, Isabella and Ferdinand. At this point, the fortress’s role became more military, and the castle at the northern end was built. Once Granada was taken in 1492, another chapter began for Andalucia.