On the Road – Distance: 97 km I 60 miles I Elevation 1645m I 5397ft
We meandered our way out of Carcassonne and for the first part of the ride spun our way across the flatlands to the north of the city before heading up into the rugged hills of the Parc Naturel du Haut Languedoc – the high Languedoc. Once again we found ourselves on awesome cycling roads which are inexplicably free of tourists. Our picturesque destination is Olargues – voted one of France’s most beautiful villages and site of the historic Devils Bridge.
And for some additional riding today we rode Col Fontfroide – Distance: 26km / 16mi | Elevation: 839m / 2753ft. This extra riding was an out and back from Olargues. It was a nice 12km climb up to Col Fontfroide (972m) on a quiet road with a great road surface. Temperature reached 39C or 102F today…..the 6000+ ft of climbing wasn’t enough!
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Destination – Olargues
Olargues, classified as one of the ‘most beautiful villages of France’ is on the banks of the little Jaur River, and forms part of the ‘Parc naturel régional du Haut-Languedoc’. Olargues is almost encircled by the river giving it a fantastic natural setting.
One of the bridges across the Jaur River is an attractive 3-arched bridge dating back to the 12th century (We dined under this bridge). This bridge is called the Pont du Diable, or devil’s bridge, apparently because it was the site of transactions between the devil and the villagers. From here the town is entered through a medieval stone arched gateway.
Languedoc
Stage 1 has taken us through two favourite wine regions in France – Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence. In 2001 the Languedoc produced more wine than the whole of the US and had a reputation for producing ‘plonk’. In the last 10 years though their wines have really improved and compare favourably with the wines of their more illustrious neighbour, Provence.
Hannibal was relatively unmolested at this stage of his march. He was continually on guard, but the Gallic tribes were so in awe of his huge army that, to begin with, they held back from attacking. However, it would not be long before the temptation would grow too much and they would try their luck against Hannibal’s mobile army.
The paved streets of the village meander uphill past medieval houses. Various remnants of former fortifications can be seen, such as parts of the original ramparts. The Church of Saint-Laurent was built in the 17th century using stone from the ramparts.
The village contains some beautiful old stone houses, many with impressive doorways and decoration. The Ruelle d’Olargues is a particularly pretty street and the Escalier de la Commanderie a lovely old stone staircase. Many of the old shop fronts are made of marble.
At the top of the hill is the bell tower. This is a remnant of an ancient (11th century) donjon of a medieval castle, converted in the 15th century. From here there are fine views over the Languedoc countryside.
Oh And Dinner!
At the Michelin Star award winning Fleurs d’Olargues restaurant overlooking the Jair river and the Pont du Diablo (Devil’s Bridge). Every ingredient is grown or raised on site: the bread, beet hummus, green pea and pepper chilled soup, almond and apricot stuffed chicken breast and peach mousse…..and beautiful Languedoc wine! A meal fit for the Hunters of Hannibal!
One thought on “Day 7: Into the high Languedoc”
Thank you for the great details from the “Bruce Libin followers.
So much more descriptive !
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