Tomorrow we leave Austria behind. I will have mixed emotions exiting into Germany. Our sojourn in this country has been filled with beauty, but also particularly brutal short steep climbs – especially for the past three days. In a masochistic sort of way, I have almost started to enjoy them but am looking forward to some more moderate gradients for the rest of the journey. Here’s my version of our last two days.

Vollererhof to St Johann

The day’s stats at a glance ~

• distance: 100.6 kms
• total ascent: 2024 metres

Our route was mapped out to take us into Germany for a couple of historical and geographical highlights. However, the weather forecast for this day was quite dire. It was meant to start raining heavily around midday. For that reason we made a prompt start with the plan of skipping our intended visit to the Eagles Nest. The route set out for us to peddle also involved a detour into beautiful Berchtesgaden National Park . This would mean 19 kilometres of riding where vehicular support would not be possible, with some extreme gradients. We would have to make a decision before leaving the Eagles Nest carpark whether we wanted to ride through the park or go around. As it turned out, conditions were promising so we all opted to ride through the park and were very glad we did. More on that later.

The descent from Vollererhof was very steep. Due to a very heavy thunderstorm the previous evening the road was still wet and covered with pine needles and other debris. We all took it pretty cautiously. At the bottom of the hill in Puch while we waited for Louise and Michael I took a picture of Di, which shows what the conditions were like as we set off …

From here we were on a bit of a mission. There was about 5 kilometres of flat riding to get our adrenaline going before we started our first of three significant hills for the day. Dianne and I rode that flat section with Michael and Louise.

Once we started up that first hill, with everyone setting into their own rhythm we got a bit strung out. Michael’s adrenaline level must have been high because when he got over the top and was descending he missed the turnoff to the Eagles Nest and continued down the hill with Louise following, before a certain Pocket Rocket – who will remain nameless – did the selfless thing and chased them down before they went so far that coming back would be unpalatable.

Jose had gone past me early on in that first climb and it wasn’t far into the second that Tony breezed past as well. At the Eagles Nest carpark where Francesca had the van set up with refreshments the weather was looking very promising so I waited for Di to arrive and once we’d had a quick bit we set off immediately on the steep descent to Berchtesgaden where we stopped and had some coffee and strudel before heading off into the National Park. This next section of riding was very beautiful even with rather overcast skies and the centrepiece of the day’s riding.

Initially the gradient rose almost imperceptibly through lush pastures and forest …

Here’s a tunnel on the relatively flat bit of riding at about 28 kilometres …

… and a small chapel near the entrance the national park …

One thing I’ve noticed here in Austria is that I’ve rarely seen cows actually eating. The pasture is so rich I think they must get just about enough to eat fairly early in the day and they spend most of their time digesting …

In the lower reaches of the park we rode alongside a beautiful stream for some kilometres ..

There was a more impressive church with a great mountain backdrop somewhere along the way …

A little further along I had to get another photo of that mountain in the left of the photo above …

Once the gradient got more serious we went at our own pace. I didn’t stop to take photos – even in the two sections where I had to get off and walk.

An aside: the only vehicles that are allowed on the upper section of the road are buses for hikers, people like farmers who own land up in the national park and perhaps some others that have got special permission. While Di was stopped at one point she took this photo of a bus coming along the road, which shows just how little room there is for cyclists to pass …

I think this is also her photo of some mountain bikers who were on the road …

She also took this photo of a memorial just below the top of the climb …

Meanwhile, I was waiting at the summit where I prevailed upon a mountain biker to take a photo for me …

He was one of a group that had gathered at the top before descending the other side …

Incidentally, I didn’t see a single other road cyclist on this section of road through the park. These guys were very impressed that an old fart like myself had ridden up the hill, and they were even more impressed when I told them that my wife was on her way up and was celebrating her 69th birthday. Here she is arriving at the top …

The descent was long and steep and, like that of Vollererhof at the start of the day, covered in gravel and other debris due to the thunderstorms so caution was the order of the day.

We were delighted to arrive in Hochmoos for a brilliant picnic lunch set up by Bruno. We all enjoyed trading stories about the climb while we had a bite to eat …

However, not wanting to get caught out before the predicted thunderstorm arrived, none of us lingered too long. We were all delighted to arrive in Sankt Johann in sunshine, and most of us enjoyed a refreshing beverage. It was not long though before the thunderstorm did arrive and the day was transformed. Torrential rain fell, with hail mixed in for good measure making for a dramatic end for another eventful day on the bike.

Sankt Johann to Alpbach

The day’s stats at a glance ~

• distance: 84 kilometres
• total elevation gained: 1531 metres

Yesterday it was supposed to be wet all day; today we expected a fine start and we awoke to rain. Rain which increased in intensity as we were eating breakfast. The mood was rather sombre and many of us were contemplating riding in the van. However after Francesca proposed a late departure, the rain began to ease and most of us set off in dribs and drabs with only a couple opting to ride in the van to coffee. Tony and his riding partner departed first and he took this photo outside our hotel as he was leaving …

Dianne and I were the next to leave with Michael and Louise. We rode for about an hour in the rain, stopping only a few times for photos …

Behind, Jose was more busy with the camera …

As the skies cleared a bit we stopped a couple more times to admire the view …

… and, in some real sunshine, to appreciate the placidness of a bunch of bovines …

Bruno decided to shout us lunch in a gasthouse and I got a few photos of some of the crew relaxing …

Before we headed off towards our final challenge of the day – the ascent to Alpbach! We’d been warned that it would be taxing, and I think all of us were experiencing some tiredness in our legs. A few riders opted not to do the final climb, but most of us battled on.

Alpbach has been dubbed Austria’s “most beautiful village” and that’s why our tour has come through here. I must admit, once I got over the shock of the climb up here I did admire its charm. With a consistent style of building and lots of flowers adorning most of them it is quite lovely …

The church in the centre of this small village is quite remarkable …

Even the small cemetery out back is quite ornate …

Alpbach is at about 950 metres above sea level and we had a bit of a descent into it from our high point of the day at over 1000 metres. Almost as if on cue a light drizzle started to fall as I reached the top and the road was wet descending into the village. Happily though, this was just a passing shower and most of our group arrived in fine conditions. We were able to enjoy a pleasant dinner eating outside.

The forecast is good for the next few days and we are all looking forward to our ride into Germany tomorrow. There is one good hill to climb but less elevation than we’ve had for the last couple of days, which will be a pleasant change!